Flora's Cavolo Nero Risotto

As the days draw in and kitchens fill with the scent of something slowly bubbling on the stove, there’s comfort to be found in the simple act of stirring. This season, we turn to our friend Flora Shedden, whose new book Winter in the Highlands captures the beauty of cold-weather cooking at its most inviting.

Her Cavolo Nero Risotto is just that - fresh yet soothing, vibrant yet deeply comforting. A bowlful of brightness for dark days, and a reminder that winter need not be grey when there’s good food and candlelight to hand.

Serves 4

Ingredients
100 g (3½ oz) cavolo nero (lacinato kale)
2 shallots (or 3 smaller ones), thinly sliced
300 g (10½ oz/1½ cups) arborio rice
150 g (5 oz) white wine
1 Parmesan rind (optional, but recommended)
700–900 g (1 lb 9 oz–2 lb) chicken stock
3 garlic cloves, peeled but left whole
juice of ½ lemon, plus zest to serve
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for frying
75 g (2½ oz) Parmesan, grated, plus extra to serve
50 g (1¾ oz) butter
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

1. Remove the stalks from the cavolo nero, setting the leaves aside. Thinly slice the stalks.

2. Heat a large, deep frying pan over a medium–high heat. Add a little olive oil, then, once hot, add the cavolo nero stalks and the shallots. Cook for 5–10 minutes, or until everything has completely softened and is just beginning to colour.

3. Add the rice and cook for a further few minutes to let the rice absorb any extra oil and warm up a little.

4. Next, pour in the white wine and stir well, allowing it to bubble and reduce. Once it has been fully absorbed, set aside 100 g (3½ oz/scant ½ cup) of the stock and then begin adding the rest of the rice, a ladleful at a time. Stir the risotto regularly between each addition, waiting until the stock has been absorbed before adding the next ladleful. Cook until the rice is just al dente – you want it on the underdone side as it will continue to absorb more liquid when you add the cavolo nero so I always cook it for 5 minutes less than you normally would. You may not need all the stock.

5. While the risotto is cooking, bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Add the cavolo nero leaves and the whole garlic cloves. Cook for 5 minutes, or until everything is completely soft. Drain, then transfer the cavolo nero and garlic to a food processor. Add the lemon juice, olive oil, Parmesan, butter and the reserved stock and blend until silky. You should have a vibrant and smooth green sauce.

6. When the rice is nearly cooked (see note above), remove the pan from the heat and stir in the green sauce. It will seem very saucy but the rice will continue to absorb the liquid. Check for seasoning and adjust as necessary, then leave to sit for 10 minutes before serving.

7. Serve with a generous amount of Parmesan, black pepper and some lemon zest on top.

Credit: Winter in the Highlands by Flora Shedden (Quadrille, £26) 
Photography © Laura Edwards